Roque Bermejo
A circular trail through the Anaga mountains leading to the most northeastern tip of the island.
This time we headed deeper into the Anaga Rural Park to the most north-eastern tip of Tenerife. We drove about 40 minutes by car from Mirador Cruz del Carmen to the village called Chamorga. The road leads mostly through the forest and is very winding. Soon after leaving the main road, we lost the signal. Our goal is to hike all the way to Roque Bermejo and back.
Chamorga is a very small village surrounded by greenery and based in the mountains. Despite no signal and a small number of residential houses, there is one restaurant. Our almost 10-kilometer adventure begins right behind this restaurant. Before the journey, we studied the sign with the map of the trail and found out that there are 2 ways to get to Roque Bermejo. One leads in front of the restaurant down the gorge (Barranco de Roque Bermejo), and the other behind the restaurant up the hills and around the Anaga lighthouse. At first we were hesitant about which way it's better to go there and which way back. Finally, we decided to go with the crowd and follow a group of tourists heading the second way to the direction of Anaga lighthouse.
At first, the path leads steeper up along stone steps surrounded by cactuses, giant agaves and other interesting greenery. The village of Chamorga quickly disappeared behind us and we were slowly reaching the tops of the mountains. At one point, we were thinking about whether to go straight to the top of the peaks to see the view. But seemed like a much longer way. In addition, we received a hint from other hikers that there at the end lurks the forest guards and control wearing of masks if the minimum distance is not maintained. So we prefered to continue on our path to the left. The road leads downhill between the trees. We had to be careful, because this section is quite steep and it smacks on stones. After the descent, a view of the wide blue ocean and two interesting rock formations appeared in front of us. It was a perfect place for a photo shoot and a break.
On the way at the foot of the mountains, we came across a signpost, where we saw a warning sign. The road behind leads to Playa de Las Breñas and is at your own risk. We did not have much time to explore it so we continued to our goal, towards the Anaga lighthouse, which was already appearing in the distance. We walked through a meadow full of flowers and it was wonderful how butterflies flew all around us.
From the Anaga lighthouse, which is fenced, the last winding part awaited us to our destination. So we started to descend the cobbled stony path, stretching down like a snake. Suddenly we entered between private fields and gardens. Roque Bermejo is a very small but picturesque village built close to the coast. In addition to a few residential houses with gardens, there are 2 beaches separated by a rock, a small harbor, a chapel and a bar. Next to it rises a massive rock, which gives the landscape a dramatic touch. Divine peace or nearby beaches can certainly be envied, but it must be worse with supplies - without a boat, one is almost lost here.
From the chapel we headed straight to one of the beaches and couldn't wait to relax and cool off in the ocean after a long sunny journey. We needed to gain some energy because we knew that we have another few kilometers ahead to Chamorga. (almost 500 altitude meters on a roughly 3.5 km long road)
We did not return the same way to the lighthouse, but headed straight from Roque Bermejo to the gorge. Along the way we passed the so-called Casas Blancas (translated as: white houses), mysterious ruins of houses built on the top of a hill. Here we enjoyed the last view of Roque Bermejo, which we left behind, and our journey through the gorge began. It was already after 5 p.m. but the sun was shining unbelievably. We continued to hike up in the unpleasant heat and the shadow was nowhere to find. We were even running out of water to drink. Thank goodness for the caps, without them it would be a clear sunburn. The route seemed endless and the enthusiasm for this hiking trip gradually decreased. After a long climb, the first houses began to appear and after a while we finally got to the starting point of our tour, the village of Chamorga.
As soon as I learned about this trail, I knew right away that I had to explore it and share it with you here. The breathtaking landscape and views of Anaga Park and Roque Bermejo itself were fascinating. BUT, after the experience of the return journey, I might choose to go down the gorge from Chamorga and then from Roque Bermejo around the Anaga Lighthouse over the hills back!
Tips for you
• The whole round trip took us the whole afternoon (something around 10km)
• Take enough water and food for the way.
• Don´t forget a cap or a hat (lack of shadow along the way) and suncream - when its sunny weather.
• I recommend trekking shoes for this hike and any hike in Tenerife.
• Note that there is a lack of signal from the Anaga main road.